True, I knew that my Voron would work out to be more expensive than the leading competitor, but I also highly value the open source ethos and saw it as an opportunity to put my money where my mouth is. No regrets and I’m happy to champion it, but I do try to present other options on the field.

My broke college student days aren’t that far behind me and I can appreciate the hell out of a value option. I’m very curious what route you have in mind.

Sure, happy to help! (Plus, I’d feel really bad recommending a Voron build and then just leaving you in the dark to figure everything out). Sorry in advance for the long post though…

Yes, Klicky Switch is the probe. Mechanically, it’s pretty similar to a BL-Touch, but is way cheaper (bonus points for also being harder to break and easier to fix) since it’s just a switch and some magnets.*

Clicky Clack is a replacement for the stock door (acrylic and some VHB tape), it makes a better seal with the printer frame. Nice to have (especially if you’re trying to keep fumes down), but by no means necessary.

Belt gauges are most handy for 2.4 builds, since they run 4 belts instead of lead screws (plus 2 for the Core XY platform) that you want to have all tensioned the same, so that every motor is moving it’s corner the same amount. Technically, you can do this by plucking the belt and using the mic on your phone to measure the frequency. (More info here). The gauge is mostly just to make it easier to compare the belts against each other rather than an empirical measurement tool. Again not a need, just a nice to have. I’ve never used the Amazon gauges since I went the kit route as it was “cheaper” (I’m also reasonably sure most of the gauges on Amazon are just modified tire depth gauges, which can be had for way cheaper and with a bit of quick modeling could be relatively easily be converted into belt gauges (or maybe someone’s already done that somewhere). There’s also printed models like this or maybe this that seve the same function. In short, haven’t tried them, but anything that can give you the same measurements repeatedly should do just fine (you can always sound tension one belt, measure it and make the others match the measurement).

Whoops typo, sorry extrusion backers. These guys: steel, titanium

Not super sure about the Tridents being self leveling, I think they are, but it would kinda depend on how they’re wired up (3 independent motors vs all 3 driven off the same control signal). The 2.4’s are absolutely self leveling though- they do a probe of each corner and adjust the gantry to be as parallel to the bed as you specify( example). From there, they’ll also probe a bed mesh, just to help deal with any deviations in the bed/ plate.

Octopus is the main control board, I think they were used for commonly for a while, but I’m not sure if they’ve been superseded by something else. Plus, I don’t have one and can’t speak to it. Mini123864 looks to be the display screen (used for Klipper Screen). You’d probably want to check the kit contents to see if a Pi is included, but based on those two alone, I’d say probably not.

(Personally, it’s a big part of why I went with the LDO kit, (this is the one I bought. More expensive, but came with high quality parts, minor upgrades, and everything short of the printed parts in the box, plus Fabreeko was running a sale when I bought mine (Voron folks like to Celebrate Clee day (was 5/25 last year) in honor of one of the outstanding community members/ Voron team members (?)/ I’m not actually entirely sure))

Uhh… Slice is not particularly well liked in Voron circles. They are very litigious with their patents, which doesn’t sit well with a crowd that is open source, well, everything (previous comment of mine with more info/ links). I think remember reading somewhere that there might be some bad blood between the Voron team and Slice, but I don’t have a link/ hard proof (beyond the fact that mounts for Slice hotends aren’t officially published with the toolhead files. If your deadset, user mods exist (and slice also sells parts)). Personally, I wasn’t all that impressed with my Mosquito Magnum, especially after I managed to irrecoverably jam the heatbreak (probably my fault. the cooling fan unplugged and heatcreap took care of the rest). Online reviews of Slice’s customer service are mixed mixed, but generally skewed negative, so I wrote the hot end off as a loss (also managed to strip one of the tiny ass m2 screws that hold the thing together trying to take it apart after the aforementioned heatcreap incident), and put Slice on my do-not-buy list. The heater and thermistor were fine- I stuffed them in a Phaetus Dragonfly though (less flow, but a solidly reliable hot end, especially on an Ender 3), and decommissioned them when I noticed that the insulation had worn though on the heater.

On the Voron, I’ve been pretty happy with the Revo High Flow that came with my Kit. Well, other than the fact that nozzle clogs are a nightmare (the HF variants are very difficult to clean/ cold pull), the cost for replacements, and general lack of availability (they exist, but my go-to vendors are almost always sold out). I haven’t decided to yet (because I don’t particularly want to recalibrate everything), but I have a Phaetus neXt G as a standby if I ever get fed up with the Revo. The Phaetus Rapido is also a popular option.

Haven’t used the Orbiter either. I don’t think I had any major issues with the stock Clockwork (it’s also been a while). I think I mostly swapped in a Galileo 2 (G2E) as a way to keep a spare extruder around in case of emergency. Overall, G2E has been pretty good- prints fine, just a bit annoying to service in the rare event of a jam (I was playing with TPU), and not known to play well with the Box Turtle MMU project that I’m working on, but that’s a problem from future me (after I get it built)…

* I can’t personally vouch for it, but in the spirit of overkill, I should probably also mention the Beacon probe, which is a stupid fast Eddy current sensor (more info here) (replaces the Klicky switch/ inductive probe).

Realistically, a good sale probably keeps you on budget (all in, after tax), but if we’re fudging that a bit in the name of upgrades, this is about the route I would go if I had to do my machine over (take this with a massive grain of salt since everyone’s goals are slightly different (and also since I bought mostly of my stuff before the tarrif nonsense started)):

Fabreeko:

• LDO 2.4 350 kit
• Backers, mostly for the discount with machine purchase, but also because I print mostly ABS lately and like not having to worry about heat soaking my machine (warm it up in advance so that any warping gets calibrated out) before each print.
• Printed parts, I tried to get the ender to print Voron parts, I really did (and was somewhat successful), but I ended up spending more time and money trying. If you don’t have a reliable source for ABS parts it’s absolutely worth the $150
• Aluminum carriage mount, significantly easier to work with the AB belts and get even lengths and tensions. Plus including in the initial build means that you don’t have the re-do the belts to install it (totally doable, just annoying).
• Nevermore Carbon, not really a mod, but a consumable that you probably don’t just have on hand. Helps cut ABS fumes (when in a filter like the included Nevermore or The Filter) and won’t corrode the nice new rails.

Pre-tax, MSRP: $1,713.21 (ideally on sale for a lower price (the kits don’t tend to get much of a discount, but sometimes they throw in free printed parts or other discounts) and maybe the Clicky Clack door + acrylic if it’s a really good sale)

AliExpress:

• PCB Klicky, x2 to put it over the free shipping limit and for spare parts

total ~$20

To answer your question, Slice stuff off the bat is probably unnecessary (if you’ve got money burning a hole in your pocket, there’s better value to be had in other mods). The nice part about Vorons is that everything can be upgraded pretty easily down the road, hopefully because you’ve identified a specific need or reason to upgrade.

I believe the official Voron recommendation is to build the printer stock first and then upgrade/ mod from there. Which is solid advice, the stock machines are very competent and don’t need upgrades to print well.

The only real day-1 upgrade I’d recommend is called the Klicky switch (or the PCB variant so that you don’t have to do any soldering, just crimping). The stock BoM calls for an inductive probe, which works, but is prone to thermal drift (it gets less accurate as the printer heats up, so you have to do your bed mesh at the same temperature every time). Klicky replaces it with a limit switch- generally more reliable and accurate regardless of temperature.

I might also recommend a belt tension gauge (totally not needed, but more convenient than trying to measure the sound frequency). I use a remix of this one (assembled, kit), but realistically, anything repeatable will do the trick.

Everything beyond that is going to depend heavily on your kit, printer, and needs. For example, the LDO kits actually come with the mechanical parts for the Klicky switch among other nice to haves. Or alternatively, if you’re doing a 350 2.4 and planning on long running enclosed prints (ABS/ASA), extension extrusion backers for the flying gantry may be a good idea (the steel linear rails and aluminum have different rates of thermal expansion, which can cause them to bend as the internal volume of the printer warms up), but they’re not especially necessary if you have a smaller printer or only ever work with PLA (which you can leave the door open/ panels off for).

The official Voron discord is also a phenomenal resource. Plus most vendors run their own discord servers for help/ questions (I’m partial to Fabreeko, because their customer service is above and beyond, but West3D is also really good).

The new printer, hands down (unless your goal is to push the viper beyond its limits). That kind of budget puts you far beyond entry level machines, and usually comes with marked improvements in quality, reliability, and speed. For example, with 1.5k you could probably swing one of the big Vorons 2.4 kits on sale (+printed parts), a Trident kit at retail (also with printed parts), or go the out of the box route and comfortably pick up the Core One (or go Bambu if that’s your jam).

For context, I can run prints on my 2.4 what would take something in the neighborhood of 4 times as long on my old ender 3.

The tie set is neat, but they’re from an era of LEGO where they’re all pretty much the same build. That said, I always thought that the tie mauler (#7664) was pretty dope, especially since it did something interesting with the “wings” while keeping the standard tie cockpit, plus the dark mode stormtroopers are sick.

Got a PineTime for Christmas and so far been very pleased with it. I found the PineTimeStyle watchface and it’s been a bit like coming home to Pebble, but I do miss the wide array of watchface choices and effortless customization.

I’ve got a Steam family going with my siblings and it makes me feel significantly better about my backlog, because even if I don’t get to it there’s probably something for everyone in the mix somewhere. Plus every now and again it’s nice to break out a random indy game that nobody’s played and just collectively suck together.

Also a 2.4 owner, I bought the 350 LDO kit from Fabreeko and it was delivered back in August. Getting it assembled and dialed in was certainly a process, but aside from that it’s been an absolute workhorse (I think I’ve got something like 200+ hours of print time in; completely blows my Thessian Ender out of the water in terms of both speed and reliability). You certainly can tinker with it and make it a project printer, but they print really well stock. The only mod I’d say is anywhere near required is swapping out the magnetic bed meshing sensor, only because the sensor readings tend to drift as the sensor gets hot. You can totally work around it, by waiting for the printer to warm all the way up or cool down to ambient before printing, but I’m impatient plus the mouse switch mod (Klicky) tends to be more reliable and accurate (plus it’s temperature agnostic).

Don’t get me wrong I’ve totally modded mine: swapped out some of the plastic parts for metal ones, added a brush to clean the nozzle before my print (makes for more consistent Z heights), replaced the panel clips with snap latches, but none of it was required to make the printer print better (mostly just to make maintenance easier and partly because it looks cool).

The new hotness in the open source MMU space is ArmoredTurtle’s BoxTurtle project, which seeks to be an open source equivalent of the Bambu AMS. I’m still working on the parts for mine, but from everything I’ve seen the build is way less fiddly (and as a result more reliable) than the ERCF.

Seconding kit Vorons. While they certainly aren’t the cheapest option, they aren’t that much more expensive than other higher end core XY machines. Fabreeko* has the 250/300mm Trident kit at 1.2k and 350mm 2.4 at 1.4k + an extra $150 or so for printed parts. Compared to the new Core One at between 950 - 1.2k or the X1C also at 1.2k you’re looking at an extra $150 to 350, but that also comes with build volume increases (both the Prusa and Bambu are at roughly 250 mm³). Definitely wouldn’t recommend them as a first printer, but Vorons are shining examples of what’s possible with open source (and they’re absolute workhorses too).

* Highly recommend them with glowing praise for being all around fantastic (they also run sales on the regular, though kit deals are usually reserved for special occasions like black Friday, or Clee day)

That’s awesome! Wishing you both the best!

Lol, it actually kind of is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Steel

Migrating my laptop to Ubuntu and literally just ran into this with Thunderbird- the profile is in the Snap directory instead of the parent home folder like the docs say.

Echoing the other comment, I loved my Pebble because it was a smartwatch that was a watch first and foremost and everything after that was added to make life easier (rather than to pile on selling points that someone might want but that nobody needs). For example, the thing had a week long battery life (irrc the first gen iWatch had something like less than a day), but even when it hit the bottom 10% of the tank, it turned off non-essentials (like Bluetooth, calendar, customizations, etc) and just kept going on a default watchface. The UI was simple, easy to navigate, and generally useful. Physical buttons meant that I never had to fight with a touchscreen to clear notifications or check my calendar.

Plus the whole thing was stupid customizable. On the software side, the community grew a fairly sizable market for watchfaces to show pretty much whatever suited your fancy (TimeStyle was always one of my favorites, but I was also fond of this Pokemon one). On the hardware side, the watch used a standard 20mm band so you could go as far as to match it to your outfit if you wanted (I had a nice metal band to go with my Steel so I could dress it up for college career fairs (and have my calendar send me a reminder when it was time to duck off to class)).

Well that might explain some things.

Not to throw shade at your company but that process is so backwards that it’s no wonder the engineers are sparse on the details. I saw another comment likening software development to a crossword puzzle, which is a pretty good analogy. To further it, changing software once it’s done is like trying to swap out a clue/ word once the rest of the puzzle is built. It’s theoretically possible, but depending on how the puzzle is designed, it can range from an absurd amount of work to nearly impossible. Given the way you’ve described the state of things, your engineers are probably low on goodwill to boot.

I’ve worked on cobbled-together crunch-time hell-projects and the last thing I’d want after getting free would be a random BA coming to me about details that more than likely packed with the project PTSD and would very much like to forget. Doubly so if it’s issues that I bought up early in the design/ development process (when they would have been comparatively easy to fix) and was dismissed by the powers that be. I can only speak for myself, but I can only take so much “that’s not a priority”, “we don’t have time for that”/ “we’ll see if that becomes a problem in the future and deal with it then” before I throw in the towel, stop keeping track of everything that’s wrong, and just bin the entire project as dumper fire run by people who would rather check boxes than make things better.

This is excellent advice! I want to underscore that Engineers are very often much driven by the how’s and the why’s of things. I’ll admit to judging people based on how they answer those sorts of questions. From a project perspective, I’m far less interested in doing something if the why of it can’t be adequately explained to me. Similarly, I’m far more willing to take a “you know, I’m not actually sure”, than a “we do it this way, because that’s the way we’ve always done it” (the latter is probably the fastest way to tank any respect I might have had).

Was trying to compose a similar statement on that lack of details. Like, my background is scrum/ agile software development and if a random BA called me up out of the blue for project details, my first response is going to be “I’m busy, talk to my scrum master and/or manager” and failing that it’s likely going to be the minimum amount of information required to get said BA to leave me alone so that I can get back to work. Plus, unless I know that my audience has the technical capacity for low level details, I tend to leave them out (I don’t mind answering questions, but I also don’t have time in my life to spout information that’s going to go in one ear and out the other).

There’s some community history, but the short version is that the US patent office issued Slice a patent for surgical tube in hot ends* which Slice has then used to litigate away competition. As a result, Slice’s actions have not sat particularly well with the parts of the 3d printing community that value open source and community innovation.

* there’s some debate as to the validity of that patent as there’s evidence that this idea dates back to the early reprap movement. Source.

Additional commentary

Given that the video is over a year old, nice to see that slice hasn’t tried to sue him out of existence.

I’m not sure I could say I’m the sole producer, most of my mods are cases where the original author has stepped away from modding and I saw an opportunity to add some improvements of my own while carrying on the torch (I stand on the shoulders of giants and all). I think I’m most known for Camping Stuff and Snowy Trees, since those are the mods that I started with, but I’ve since adopted a few more, but if you’re interested in the full list, here’s my Steam / GitHub