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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 20th, 2023

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  • Yes, I am aware of those changes but what has this to do with Plex Home?

    From those changes, as long as you, the Server Admin, has Plex Pass, your Users would still be able to stream remotely without having Plex Pass themselves:

    When running your own Plex Media Server as a subscriber, other users to whom you have granted access can also stream from the server (whether local or remote), without ANY additional charge—not even a mobile activation fee.

    And there is nothing being mentioned that sharing your Plex Pass features to your Plex Home Users will change in any way.



  • relaible!!! I want to start a print and return once it is done. Not worrying about print failures

    Well, any printer will do that if you calibrate it well enough. I have seen many people not doing anything in that regard and complaining that they can’t get anything to print.

    However, getting to that calibration can be easier or more involved.

    Works with a good slicer. Back in the day I used PrusaSlicer with UV-tools to convert it to Anycubic fileformat.

    I only used PrusaSlicer for FDM prints; for resin, I use Chitubox or, more often, Lychee Slicer. “Good” is fairly ambiguous here because what would a “good” slicer look like to you? Either of the ones I mentioned would be good and are fairly popular.

    resin vat mixing (vat tilting is good enough) to prevent resins from seperating during long prints

    I don’t think that most consumer resin printers have this sort of feature. The Lift and retract of the built plate should be enough to keep the resin well-mixed and any resin that is separating because of that wouldn’t be something that I would consider buying again anyway. Funnily enough, since you mentioned Anycubic Resin, this was specifically my experience with it that it easily separated. Never had this problem with other manufacturers like Elegoo or Sunlu.

    at least two washing containers (first stage dirty IPA, second stage “clean” IPA)

    This would be hard to get “out of the box”, but you might be able to get a replacement container for the wash station separately (at least that is what I did).

    I noticed none of the printers have magnetic/spring metal build platforms. Are they outdated/no longer required?

    This is mostly an upgrade that you can do to add a magnetic sheet on which you then can add this flexible built plate. This is still around like WhamBam Flex plates. I used that on two of my printers but never bothered to do that on my current printer because with the right raft and bottom exposure settings there isn’t much need to do that, also it is messier.

    cleaning liquid: Is isopropanol alcohol (IPA) still the goto?

    Pretty much for any “normal” resin. Water-washable resin has gotten more popular but the majority is still cleaned with more aggressive solvents like IPA.

    Cure and Wash? No idea. all the solutions I have looked at seem to be still similar to the old anycubic cure and wash. The Prusa CW1 on the other hand looks like a well-thought-out solution.

    I think this should be answered based on what printer you choose in the end. My first Printer was an Elegoo Mars 2 Pro with a combo wash and cure box from Anycubic. I always had to remove the models from the built plate before washing them, which made a mess and I used so many paper towels to clean that up.

    With my Saturn 4 Ultra, I can just take the built plate and put it into the Wash bucket and let both the built plate and the models get clean which is so much more convenient and I have less of a mess to clean up because it is just IPA that I have to wipe up and not Resin and then clean the surface with IPA again and wipe that up too.

    As for the Printer, I am pretty happy with my Saturn 4 Ultra at the moment. It is affordable and I could quickly get it to print because of the Auto levelling feature (which isn’t really auto levelling) and the integrated exposure test which is much faster than what UVTools would generate. The VAT tilt is a bit dangerous because of a potential resin leak of the release film, leaking into your printer’s internals, but it will speed up the printing process quite a bit.

    The other features like the camera weren’t that interesting to me but the 16K version has, for example, a light (which the first gen was missing) so you would also be able to check the printer in a dark environment. On the other hand, the AI detection for print failures is still something I would consider a gimmick because it would only do that from one side, the side facing the camera. A failure on any other side would not be detected.

    Unfortunately, I also don’t have any other experience with other brands or printers, I only ever had Elegoo printers from the Mars 2 Pro, the Original Saturn and now the Saturn 4 Ultra and was fairly happy with all of them in what they brought me.



  • I would disagree with the last sentence.

    Astrobot was actually a game. It was more like any other game that taught you how to play the game with the implemented features. This could have been any other game doing the same thing but it came directly from Sony.

    Looking at the “Welcome Tour gameplay” video, this isn’t even close to what Astrobot did. It is a Hub in which you get told what those features are with minigames for that specific feature.

    My point is: If the only point is to advertise the functionality of the console, charging any sort of money for it is not productive for what it should be achieving. You want people to learn how to use your console and then charge money for it will do the exact opposite. People won’t buy it because there is no benefit to actually buying it.

    Any other game would teach you how to play it anyway.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJoAaOClzrY




  • I can think of two problems:

    First, not every Release Film is the same. You are talking specifically of FEP which is mostly used to describe the Release film and was commonly used for that but is the material that the Release film is made from. There are different types like the already mentioned FEP but also nFEP, PFA, ACF and probably others as well. Each of those materials has a different rigidity which would mean that they peel away from the Model sooner or later. According to this, FEP is much more flexible than PFA or ACF.

    Second, the durability of the Release Film. Over time, the Release film will wear out and need to be replaced. They could become more flexible the more you use them. Cutting it too close could mean that your models will fail from one print to another.

    Some other thoughts:

    • How much the Release film flexes could also depend on the surface area being printed. More surface area could mean that the layer is sticking to the release film longer
    • The same would apply to the Exposure rate because higher exposure rates make your layers stick more, including to your Release film
    • Assembly also plays a role in this. Since you need to replace the Release film at some point, you could add more or less “slack” on the film which would throw off your previous test massively.

    While I like the idea, I think it would signal a false sense of confidence in your printer because if you “dial in” your lift distance and the model then fails, people could start looking in the completely wrong direction to fix a problem. I mean, with that many variables to consider, people still download the validation matrix without adjusting their bottom and transition layers based on the description and then ask why their exposure test doesn’t work.