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Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: June 10th, 2023

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  • morbidcactus@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.worldDust.
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    22 hours ago

    Depends on the printer, the large Vorons use high wattage ac heaters and are self enclosed, I have fans on mine that force air under the bed, can easily push into the 60s in the summer. My prusa in its enclosure maybe does mid-high 40s, but I have no issues with warping, did all my original voron prints on it and still use it for smaller/quick prints, good adhesion helps a lot, for small stuff I don’t always preheat for abs. I pretty much run Buildtak surfaces on my printers, it’s replaceable if it’s damaged + adheres extremely well so I can get away with being a bit more carefree.

    Haven’t personally needed additional heating other than maybe a space heater in the garage to stop things from kicking out on a low temp when not in use, did consider modding one into the enclosure but I’m personally thinking about going for insulation first.

    I’d be cautious about a long term extension cord outside, I’m not an Electrician or an EE so I won’t give you advice on that, be nervous I’d clip it mowing the lawn at the minimum, mains spooks me so I give it an overabundance of caution.


  • morbidcactus@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.worldDust.
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    1 day ago

    Enclosures are a must IMO, but I do print mostly abs and nylon. I have mine in the garage in a separate airspace with recirc filters like the Nevermore, have the large stealthmax on my voron, I don’t stay in the room when I print, but it definitely reduces the residuals.

    If you have to print inside, vent outside, benefit of using an enclosure is that you can set this up pretty easily. Venting the entire room outside is also a good option. I do not recommend using anything but the “safer” filaments until you’re certain the airspace is separate from your home, I’m on the cautious side.

    All filaments produce fumes, you still don’t want to be breathing pla or petg fumes on the regular, I don’t mess with resin, you want VOC cartridges and a respirator for those AFAIK, I have some from previous jobs and they’re pretty affordable but it sucks to work with those on in the summer (and I’d need to shave…). There’s variation between manufactures of the same type of plastic, I’ve got some abs that has minimal to no scent, have another I’ve used that stinks.


  • morbidcactus@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.world3D Printing is Fun!
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    2 days ago

    It’s a learning experience. Is your nozzle torqued to spec? Only time I’ve seen something like this is when the heatbreak/nozzle weren’t set correctly on a v6 hotend, and even then it just oozed down, didn’t consume the entire heatsink. I kept that in my box of learning lol, swapped everything to hotends that are secured so they don’t spin freely after that, was petg so it degraded in the heat and was such a pain in the ass to remove from set screws, was ok writing it off.

    Bed adhesion is often caused by surface cleanliness in my experience, some setting will influence it but you’re going to chase problems if your surface has residual oils, some surfaces are more sensitive to it but even the oils in your fingerprints can cause a loss of adhesion. Light dish soap and water is the general recommendation for a degreaser but be aware that this will damage some surfaces, I’ve got some that explicitly want only 99% IPA and another that only wants a clean microfibre cloth.

    Drafts can cause an issue too, seen some abs fail becauae I didn’t have the enclosure latched properly and the doors worked their way open with vibrations from printing, I keep mine in my garage and live in Canada, enclosures are a must for me.



  • I’ve got a 4070ti running most recent nvidia-open on arch and haven’t had that happen, but I don’t tend to run with vsync often.

    What proton version are you running this on? Had some weird almost microstutters in cutscenes playing DA:Veilguard through moonlight on my steamdeck. Swapping to experimental resolved that, think it was one version of proton-ge that I had the issue with.

    Do you have vrr enabled by any chance?

    Are you running through gamescope? Have had grief with gamescope and nvidia, but that was mostly with hdr.


  • Ended up dropping for good toward the end of beyond light, my partner and I primarily pvped (just for fun, wasn’t super into ranked honestly) and was feeling really stale, was getting tired of only control (easily my least favourite gamemode) for 6s and only elim or showdown for 3s got dry, missed a variety of game modes (and personally liked 4s). It sucked because destiny had really fun PvP and amazing guns, hand cannons will be the iconic weapons to me, rolled with a chaperone/hc combo or hc/fusion rifle since house of wolves, they got bows right too, the lemonarque was fantastic.


  • morbidcactus@lemmy.cato3DPrinting@lemmy.world3d printer recommendations
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    16 days ago

    Are you planning to regularly print large items? Around that price range could get you a formbot v0.2 kit with printed parts. It’s core xy and open source if that matters to you. Print size is 120x120x120 which is small for sure, but in my experience, most of the stuff I print falls in that range (I have a 350mm v2.4 and a mk3s I’ve rarely filled the build plate on either, I’d love a few small printers for quick test prints). It’s also enclosed, can put a Nevermore Micro in it for fumes, and it’s designed to be able to print abs. Supposed to be able to print all the parts for larger vorons on it too if you ever do wish to go larger.

    My first printer was a MendelMax 2 kit that I had to sell unfortunately due to a move and not wanting to ship a glass bed cross country. I personally like a kit for a first build, while I get that people don’t vibe with tinkering or maintenance, you’ll learn a lot and you can tweak it to your liking.

    You could source from a Canadian vendor (assuming you’re Canadian based on your instance), I’ve sourced a lot from Spool3D in Calgary but will cost you more than the formbot kit. Definitely recommend them for future needs. 3D labtech carries a lot of mods, had great experiences with both of them.


  • Prusa’s first layer calibration in the past would do a long line across the plate to give you time to adjust, I personally just use a piece of paper or feeler gauge (have a tap probe) to set my offset and then run with it. Auto levelling and meshing work extremely well in my experience, if you have something adjustable imo you’re best doing that offline anyhow, the nozzle to surface distance is what matters, you don’t need to push plastic to measure that, in fact I wouldn’t even attempt to do that until I was confident in my measured offsets, tool crashes suck and super close scraped on plastic sucks to remove from a surface.